TURF LAWN SEEDING INFORMATION
The effort in the beginning to properly prepare the soil
will directly reflect the health and appearance of the
lawn for years to come. At the very least, we need a firm
and raked surface, free of existing vegetation, on which to
apply the hydroseed mix.
A high percentage of the plant and turf problems can be
traced to and/or caused by poor soil environment. Most
construction sites become severely compacted which results
in loss of pore space between soil particles and impedes
the movement of air, water and the ability of the roots
to penetrate through the soil. The addition of a few inches
of topsoil, spread over the top of compacted soils, does
little to improve the situation. The end result is a
shallow rooted lawn that is highly susceptible to drought
during the summer and flooded roots during the winter.
The best approach to correcting this situation is to amend
the existing soil by tilling a decomposed organic matter
into the existing soil (i.e. fertile mulch, peat moss,
decomposed sawdust, Steeco, Gro-Co, etc.). If this approach
is not possible due to rock or other reasons then the
second option would be to import topsoil* and spread to a
depth of at least 4 to 6 inches. (*Topsoil is a very vague
term. Most of the soils on the market locally are
manufactured products and vary a great deal in composition.
Make some inquiries before purchasing).
IN GENERAL TERMS
"How to Prepare for a New Lawn"
- Measure lawn area. Most prices for materials and
services are based on amount of square feet.
- Eliminate existing vegetation (be sure to read labels
carefully when purchasing a herbicide).
- Remove debris (rocks, sticks, etc.). Locate any stumps
or major obstacles beneath the surface that may damage
the tiller or other equipment.
- Examine the soil. Soil is made up of sand, silt and
clay particles. The percentages of these ingredients
determine the texture of your soil. Sandy soils let
water and air pass readily by and they also dry out
very quickly, allowing nutrient levels to be flushed
through the soil before they have a chance to do any
good. Clay soils transfer water and air very slowly
and cause soils to remain soggy while starving the
roots of needed oxygen. Adding organic matter will
greatly enhance both sand and clay soils.
- Establish a rough grade. Fill in low spots. Make sure
grade slopes away from house, sidewalk, driveway, etc.
- Spread soil amendments (decomposed organic matter)
 **Enough organic matter should be added to
physically change the texture of the soil to a depth
of 5 to 6 inches. About 1-2" organic matter mixed into
the top 6 Inches of soil is usually sufficient
(3-6 cubic yards per 1,000 square feet). In addition
to organic matter it is a good idea to also add lime
and a high phosphorus fertilizer at this time.**
- Till this material down 5 to 6 inches.
- Install underground sprinkler system (if desired).
- Establish the final grade.
- Roll lightly (using water lawn roller half full) and
rake (just before seeding to break up any crust that
has formed so the seeds have an excellent chance to
bond with the soil)and water lightly if ground is very
dry.
- Call Grass Master to schedule your custom hydroseeding.
Grass Master uses only the highest rated varieties of
seed, balanced fertilizers, pH adjuster, mulch fiber
and root stimulant. Our products and workmanship are
fully guaranteed.